Oh, probably the biggest highlight of my two weeks in Tirana was a “guys’ night” during which we played beer pong, called each other “bro” and talked about Civilization II. I had thought this was basically it but then someone mentioned that no guys’ night is complete without a pear vinaigrette salad. This was news to me but I used this opportunity to go to market and buy some lettuce.
Next to the train station there was (and still is) a group of vegetable sellers from the countryside. I selected the oldest and cronliest of vendors (who traded exclusive in lettuce) and indicated that I would like two heads of buttercrunch. She then indicated some number to me which I thought was 50 leke ($0.50) so I gave her 60. She looked at the coins, did an exasperated and disbelieving double-take, and then looked around with a smirk. She put ALL of her lettuce into a bag, handed it to me, picked up her stool, turned to her fellow vendors as if to say, “Later, loooosers!”, swatted her hand and walked away. 60 cents!
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