Istarafshan Pass

There was nothing more exciting than hitting the open road.   There were multiple cars coming the other way with massive loads strapped to the roof racks, and as we climbed higher and higher it got less foggy and rainy and actually started to snow.  In Canada that just means be careful when driving.  In Tajikistan, it meant think nothing of it and deal with any fallout later.  We bribed about 7 or 8 cops, as I watched my $30 contribution to the ride dwindle down, and then stopped at a roadside eatery where we ate beef shashlik, bread, and tea, and where I got an apple from an old man selling honey.  Once we got back on the road we had barely travelled for 15 minutes before we encountered a lineup.  Luckily my driver did not see this so much as a barrier as he did an opportunity to see how well this terrible vehicle could fare with offroading and he drove up alongside the queue as far as he could go, which was to a toll booth/gateway to the Istarafshan Pass, which appeared to be closed and there was some commotion going on.  Some police were there and everyone was hollering, and what I was able to glean from the situation was that there was snow on the pass, so only one lane of traffic was moving, and they were clearing the road as best they could but we were not allowed to pass at this time.  Maybe later.  

I took this opportunity to get out, stretch my legs, and take in all that this valley had to offer.  It had so little to offer.  It really was just a simple tollbooth and there was nothing except a teahouse to help weary travellers before they headed up the pass.  I walked around, walked up into the hills to look down on the scene, walked among the cars and get hollered at by almost everyone, and then just waited.  I waited so long.  And I waited until it started to get dark and I started to worry.  I was worried we would be driving in the dark in the mountains and in the snow, but my fears were assuaged.  Instead, the road would not open until morning, so we all--all 8 of us--would be sleeping in the car.  What a relief to not have to drive in the dark!

I wasn't totally down with sleeping in the car.  I mean, I had the best seat, but I didn't think it would be the best sleep.  So I wandered over to the teahouse, after stuffing my iPod, iTouch, wallet, and camera into my boxers (yes, they're boxer briefs for those inquiring, and they can hold all of this stuff).  I wanted to eat something, like soup, or bread, or shashlik, and have some hot tea, and so I found myself a seat at a low table and ended up getting into a conversation with a fun crowd.  Truck drivers, students, random people.  I was given some more free apples.  Things were really happening for me.  I drank tea and pulled out my notebook to write about my feelings (imagine how I was feeling at that moment.  Just guess!).  I decided that this was probably the best place to sleep, so I wedged myself in the most comfortable position possible (which, let me tell you, was NOT comfortable at all) and tried to plug in my iPod to help pass the time and guide me to sleep.